Chasing Solitude: Camping East of Lake Koocanusa

After a long week of work, I was eager for the weekend and a little outdoor adventure. I only had time for a quick overnight trip, but I wanted to make the most of it. My usual go-to in situations like this is the North Fork region of the Flathead River, but this time I decided to head west and explore the area around Lake Koocanusa.

Lake Koocanusa is a large reservoir in northwest Montana and British Columbia, Canada, created by the construction of the Libby Dam on the Kootenai River in 1973. The lake has a stunning turquoise color and is surrounded by mountain views. It’s a great place to find a campsite.

East of the reservoir, there are plenty of dispersed camping opportunities, along with several developed campgrounds if that’s more your style. I prefer solitude, so I was looking for a more secluded spot. Since it’s April, several forest service roads are closed to prevent damage from spring runoff and mud. After reviewing the Kootenai National Forest’s seasonal road closures, I marked a few areas on the map to check out.

Finding Camp

The first road I had marked was gated, so I continued driving along the reservoir. The next road was open, and I was able to explore several spurs looking for an ideal site. My first goal was to get down to the water. The main road sits well above the lake, so access requires descending narrow side trails.

The first spur I tried ended abruptly. The second trail looked promising—it would’ve taken me to the lake—but it was narrow, steep, and muddy. I was confident I could get down, but unsure if I’d be able to climb back out in those conditions, so I turned around again.

Finally, I found a road that didn’t lead directly to the lake but opened up into a clearing in the forest with beautiful mountain views. It felt like the perfect campsite, so I pulled in and began setting up.

That evening, I cooked a steak and asparagus over the campfire and enjoyed a few beers. After dinner, I sat by the fire reading on my Kindle. I’m currently reading Crow Killer: The Saga of Liver-Eating Johnson. Stories about mountain men have really captured my interest lately. The site turned out to be ideal—I didn’t see another person the entire time I was there.

The Next Day

The next morning, I planned to explore the area a bit more. I wanted to cross to the west side of the reservoir to get a feel for the terrain over there. I haven’t spent much time on that side yet, but it’s on my list for this year. The western side of the lake is remote, with a network of forest service and logging roads waiting to be explored. I didn’t venture too far, but what I saw made me excited to return and dive deeper into that area.

After crossing back over the river, I continued south and came across a spot that’s popular with rock climbers, located right off the main road. My destination was Peck Gulch Campground, a forest service site down by the water. Unfortunately, it was a bit of a letdown. The campground consists of a few gravel lots, each with four or five fire rings and picnic tables—zero privacy between campsites. It’s not a spot I’d consider during peak season, but it might be an option in winter when dispersed camping is harder to access and few people are out.

Final Thoughts

This quick trip to the Lake Koocanusa area was a great introduction. I found a solid campsite and got a feel for the terrain and opportunities for future trips. I’ll definitely be coming back—especially to explore the western side of the lake more thoroughly.